SKBOWE installation has just three steps and will take about 15 minutes using the included zip-ties. If you are inclined to take a little more care and can drill and cut aluminum, it can bolt on a metal bracket inside of the wheel well for a cleaner look – these steps are listed under the ‘pro install’ headings.
Without further ado, let’s begin!
Step 1: Pull the pin
JKJK there’ll be no hand-holding here. If you can’t figure out how to get your headlights out of a P1 car please return your SKBOWE .
Real Step 1: Mount SKBOWE
The recommended SKBOWE mounting location is behind the OEM GDL (gas discharge lamp) control module cutout, directly behind the headlight housing.
If you are in a rush, you can also use the included zip-ties to secure it in about 30 seconds:
Fits like a glove! Alternately, depending on how your ballast is mounted you could shove them in the gap between the quarter panel and wheel well, and secure it with a single zip tie or industrial strength velcro (not included)
If you are going all out, you can make aluminum brackets that span this cutout to hold the SKBOWE, securing it with stainless screws:
This requires removing the wheel-well liners. Access is greatly improved with jack stands and the wheels removed. The bracket should be about 5.5″ long, with the SKBOWE mounting holes on 4.5″ centers. One end has a 3/8″ hole for the bolt (on the right side, the AC line stud can be used), the other is a tab that fits between the ballast and the frame. I used M4x8 screws and tapped the aluminum, YMMV.
Step 2: Ground SKBOWE
The recommended grounding location is the M8x1.25 quarter-panel mounting bolt at the top of the headlight housing opening. This was painted with the car so you will need to clean it up.
This is the most important step in the install process – the grounding is what protects your WMM.
You should really use a Dremel Tool with a burr or sanding disk, but I will include a small piece of sand paper in the kit for those who don’t have them. Using the sand paper will take a long time (spend 5 minutes per side)! THE METAL HAS TO BE SHINY.
Once the bolt is clean, route the ground strap up and around to come in from behind.
I will include two M8-1.25 stainless nuts with each kit. Make sure these nuts are TIGHT – 60NM if you want a number – so that the stainless will deform slightly to keep it in place. Add thread locker if you have it – but only sparingly on the threads.
Step 3: Install the Ballast
Install the ballast and bulbs according to your manufactures instructions. You will need to drill a hole somewhere in the headlight cover for the power and HV wires, clearance with the lights installed is pretty tight so DOUBLE CHECK YOUR DRILL LOCATION TO MAKE SURE THAT THE WIRES CAN EXIT WITHOUT HITTING ANYTHING. Be sure to mount the ballast such that the connector(s) won’t collect water:
Wiring is simple: H11 inside headlight plugs into the HID kit adapter and passes through grommet in cover. 9005/9006 connectors from Headlight -> SKBOWE -> Ballast. It only hooks up one way.
Do check to make sure the red goes to red (or +), black to black (or -), 99% of manufactures use the same configuration (as does the SKBOWE) but it never hurts to check.
Here’s a diagram if you are having trouble with my blurry iPhone pics
If you have a D2S ignitor and no H11 passthrough, boulderc30 developed an ingenious solution – remove the connector (see this page for info) and pass the factory wiring out through the same grommet:
For more details on this method, check out his custom projector install thread on c30crew!
The basic Morimoto installation with re-based bulbs and AMP ignitors is shown in the diagram below.
If you want to get fancy and have the Morimoto ballasts, the “Nick-style” setup which eliminates the need for a grommet is shown below. This is exactly how the original BMW E46 Gen1 headlight assemblies were wired, with both the ignitor input and 12V output passing through the housing.
Note that this only works for ballasts with detachable ignitors, since there is only 85VAC or so in the blue/green wires. Don’t even think about running the HV (20kV) next to battery voltage!
Start out testing by activating the headlights with the engine off just to make sure everything is hooked up right.
If that works, button her up, do a quick FODD check, fire her up and go for a spin!
Once everything is working, if you haven’t recently it’s a good idea to check the aim – see the Volvo P1 Headlight Aiming page for more info.
That’s all there is to it!
That’s all it takes for beautiful, error-free headlights. Enjoy!
Questions? Comments? Drop me a note.